In the high-rise kingdom that is Hong Kong, even the cocktails reach towards the sky—particularly the city’s most famous drink, the Earl Grey Caviar Martini, an impressive number that sports a sky-high coiffe of white foam and bed of bright orange boba-like beads below.

The signature drink at Quinary in Hong Kong’s buzzy SoHo neighborhood is a sight to behold, and the architect who designed the molecular masterpiece still casts a shadow over the city’s cocktail scene.

When Antonio Lai opened Quinary in 2012, there were only a handful of upscale cocktail bars in town. Nearly all of them were inside hotels, and almost none of them served anything beyond the classics. Then Lai opened his molecular-cocktail-bar-slash-epicurean-laboratory and changed everything.

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